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Cruising had never held any appeal for either of us, but we had always wanted to take the Norwegian Coastal Voyage - so we booked our passage on MS Richard With for September 2007.
We booked our flights independently and travelled a day early so that we could explore Bergen. Our first glimpse of the ship was from the hill above the harbour as we were making our way back to the Hurtigruten terminal from Bergen's aquarium. On returning to the terminal, the check-in process was accomplished quickly and efficiently - we had to wait to board the ship, as it was still being prepared (very quick turn-around in port), but once boarding commenced we were welcomed by a friendly and efficient crew and our bags had already been delivered to our mini-suite. On reflection, we'd have been perfectly comfortable in a standard cabin, but this was a special holiday and we appreciated the extra space.
Our first task was to arrange our table for dinner in the restaurant, which involved a certain amount of queuing - but once we'd done that we set to work exploring the ship and settling in. The ship itself was modern, clean and spacious and had every facility we'd hoped for. Our mini-suite was roomy, comfortable and spotlessly clean with a basket of fresh fruit waiting for us - the fruit was replenished regularly. There is a gym on MS Richard With but it's a bit of a joke - there are a couple of machines (treadmill, bike), but that's your lot. However there is a sauna and two outdoor jacuzzis. (One lady crossed the Arctic Circle in the jacuzzi.) The public lounges and bars were comfortable and mercifully quiet and it was always possible to get away from the crowds (not that it ever felt crowded.)
We had decided not to pre-book any excursions as the weather is unsettled at that time of year (mid-September) - this turned out to be a good decision, as it was raining heavily on the day we entered Geirangerfjord and the coach journey along the mountain roads would have been a waste of money, owing to the swirling mist.
The 'work' of the ship was a constant source of fascination to us - although the ship docks for only 30 minutes at some ports, we tried to set foot on shore at every port and were able to observe the loading and unloading of cargo and vehicles. At some ports the ship stopped for several hours and we were able to explore - Trondheim and Tromso have much to offer and are easy to visit on foot, but we managed to see a little of most of the other ports of call in the short time available - we made friends with a number of other passengers intent on doing the same thing.
The crew are efficient and friendly but never intrusive and they don't 'dance attendance' on passengers - it is assumed that you will take responsibility for yourself, listen to announcements and heed the information provided, which may come as a shock to anyone expecting to be mollycoddled and shepherded about. We didn't perceive this as a problem.
This is not a holiday for people who want a 'cruise' - there is no bingo, no entertainment, no disco-dancing, no dressing up for dinner, no fawning stewards, no keeping-up-with-the-Joneses. The 'entertainment' is the landscape, the wildlife and the fascinating and little-known history of the Norwegian coastal communities. For us this was just perfect! It was total relaxation, no pressure at all. Every day brought something new and interesting to see or do - like the day we saw a sea-eagle close-up.
The daily itineraries published on board kept us up to date with the highlights ahead and helped us to plan our visits. The purser was incredibly helpful and there were announcements drawing attention to interesting or beautiful sights - including encounters with other vessels from the Hurtigruten fleet - always a cause of great excitement on board. We became unashamed ship-spotters.
Crossing the Arctic Circle is celebrated with a ceremony at which King Neptune makes an appearance! We enjoyed a visit to North Cape, where the wind nearly blew us off our feet. Many of the excursions are expensive - good value if the weather is right but poor weather might spoil the experience - for this reason, we thought it better to wait for the forecast and book on board, rather than in advance.
You will find museums and monuments all along the coast - the Hurtigruten Museum, with the original MS Finnmarken in dry dock, is worth a visit. There are also several museums of local life and of the history of North Norway - the Museum of the Reconstruction (following WW2) at Hammerfest is a particularly informative and very moving example. Vardohus Fort (still manned) is also a real gem. However, the spectacular landscapes are the star of the show - the beautiful Lofoten Islands and the stunning scenery of Trollfjord, where the captain 'pirouetted' the ship at the head of the fjord so that we could take in the sheer majesty of the scene. Breathtaking!
Throughout the journey, the food was both plentiful and delicious and service was brisk, efficient and friendly, but always very informal. Unless you have a large appetite, the half-board option (where available) would be perfectly adequate - there is a generous buffet-breakfast available until quite late and a decent three-course evening meal. (The buffet lunch - also sumptuous - was at times one meal too many, but still irresistable!) For those on half-board, snacks are available in the café, should you feel peckish.
Our only complaint (and it's not the fault of the tour operator or the shipping line) was the price of beer! Norwegian taxes on alcohol make beer and wine VERY expensive. On-board prices are in line with prices in bars and restaurants on dry land. We resolved this problem by buying beer in supermarkets (still expensive, though!) but this has to be consumed in the cabin and not in the public areas of the ship. The large sacks of empty cans taken off the ship for recycling bore witness to the fact that we were not the only passengers doing this!
Money-saving tips: we took our own travel kettle and some tea-bags for our early morning cuppa (but then we are Brits.) We also opted for a jug of tap-water at mealtimes - free of charge. This saved us quite a lot of money over the 10 days of the voyage. If you want 'drinkies' at reasonable prices during your cruise, don't forget to get your duty-frees. You can purchase at Bergen airport on landing - which is what all the locals do!
In summary, this is a journey we would love to repeat, perhaps at a different time of year, perhaps on one of the other ships..... a magical and unforgettable experience.
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